The Valmalenco Valley, a lesser-known gem within the broader Valtellina region, is dotted with mountain huts set among rocky slopes, glaciers, and high-altitude meadows.
In this two-day loop beneath the imposing Piz Bernina, you’ll visit three of the valley’s most iconic Valmalenco huts — Carate, Marinelli and Bignami — used by hikers and mountaineers tackling longer traverses or nearby summits.
Trek Overview
| Route: | Loop from Campo Moro |
|---|---|
| Mountain range: | Eastern Rhaetian Alps |
| Elevation gain: | 1,073 m |
| Max Altitude: | 2,819 m |
| Lenght: | 21 km |
| Time required: | 4 hours (day 1) + 3 hours (day 2) |
| Hazards: | Loose terrain before Forcella di Fellaria |
| Difficulty: | Moderate – steep sections and loose scree |
| Best season: | June – early October |
| Trail marking: | Clear CAI signs |
| Overnight: | Rifugio Carate |
| Water | Available in huts or by filtering streams |
| Other huts: | Marinelli, Bignami |
| Dog-friendly | Yes (see dedicated section) |
| Wildlife: | Bearded vulture, Alpine ibex |
Day 1 – Climbing to Rifugio Marinelli
From the dam at Campo Moro, the trail immediately enters the forest, following the higher path. Butterflies and wild orchids add bursts of color, making it hard not to stop for photos.
A long stone staircase climbs beside rocky outcrops, with fixed chains offering extra security. Old firs with massive exposed roots grip the soil and lean over the trail like ancient guardians.
As the path narrows, you enter alpine vegetation.
CAI markers (342/1) are always visible, so navigation is easy. Behind you, the peaks surrounding lower Valtellina rise sharply, while the Orobie Mountains emerge farther away.
Rhododendrons are already blooming, and Nala takes advantage of every patch of shade for quick naps.
Approaching the first of the Valmalenco huts
About an hour remains before reaching Rifugio Carate, for a total ascent of roughly 2.5 hours. The slope becomes steeper and entirely exposed to the sun. A natural pool halfway up offers a refreshing stop for overheated hikers and dogs alike.At 2,636 m, Rifugio Carate sits just below Bocchetta delle Forbici, overlooking the rocky valley.
Bocchetta delle Forbici & the Bernina Panorama
A short climb above the hut brings you to Bocchetta delle Forbici — a doorway into a hidden alpine world. Suddenly, the Bernina Group appears in full majesty: glistening glaciers, jagged ridges, and endless white.
Nala sprints toward a snowfield, rolling joyfully in the cold crystals. Two small glacial lakes, formed by melting snow and ice, precede the final ascent to Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri (2,813 m), the highest between the Valmalenco huts we visited, suspended above the basin of Piz Bernina, Piz Roseg, Pizzo Sella and other giants.
On the opposite side, the mighty Cima di Caspoggio towers at 3,136 m. After an expensive but well-deserved beer on the terrace — and spotting a bearded vulture circling above — we return to Rifugio Carate for the night.
It’s just us and a hiker from Cantù: peaceful mountain solitude.
Bringing Your Dog to the Hut
Rifugio Carate is dog-friendly and allows dogs in the room with a €20 supplement.
Always call ahead and always respect hut etiquette — other hikers and fragile mountain environments depend on it.
Day 2 – The Ibex of Forcella di Fellaria
Having already visited two huts on day one, today’s objective is Rifugio Bignami, the final stop before descending back to Campo Moro. From Carate, the trail toward Forcella di Fellaria begins gently, then quickly becomes a jumble of boulders.
You’ll hop from stone to stone for nearly an hour.Just below the pass, he appears — the king of the cliffs. An enormous Alpine ibex, with symmetrical curved horns showing his age, watches us calmly. His quiet confidence is humbling.
We move slowly and respectfully; this is his kingdom. From the pass, the view opens onto the Fellaria Glacier basin, a spectacular amphitheater of ice and rock.
The Fellaria Glacier
The descent toward Rifugio Bignami follows a simple route through snowfields, rubble and eventually soft alpine ground.
Streams flow toward the artificial lake, nourishing high-altitude pastures.
As we lose elevation, the sight of the glacier becomes even more impressive — and heartbreaking — as its thinning edges show how quickly it is retreating.
Goats dot the meadows as Rifugio Bignami welcomes us with warm food and a lit stove despite the summer season. You could climb toward the glacier from here, but we choose to admire the waterfalls cascading from its icy face.
Return to Campo Moro
The final stretch follows a single trail along the right side of the basin, through wild orchids and botanical species unknown to me.
This area also hosts a section of the famous Sentiero Roma — a route we hope to hike soon.At the end of the dirt track, we cross the dam and return slowly to the car, closing a two-day loop filled with alpine wonder.
